Painting a 1/16th scale German Infantryman - Part II

Mark Bannerman


Once the entire figure was glued, car filler (the orange stuff) was used to fill all the gaps. The head had been painted at this point but separately. I opted to leave the head off and glue it at the end. The gluing of this kit is quite straight forward. Just ensure to line up his right arm to accommodate the MG. It should be noted that the Tamiya figure head as seen in the photo was NOT the head included with this kit. Rather, the head originally came with the Tamiya camo'ed schmizer infantryman and switched the body by transplanting it to Tamiya's 120 mm German Infantryman (winter).

The whole figure (except the head) took a full prime of Tamiya Flat White so that I could find all of the imperfections. Once the nicks and cracks were filled and sanded out, I sprayed copious amounts of Tamiya Field Grey with a little gloss added to it. The whole figure took this treatment and I let sit to dry overnight.

I mixed up some WN Payne's Grey oil, WN Olive Green oil and a tad of Raw Umber to a ratio of 3:3:1 and gently applied a very thin layer of paint to the entire jacket. I immediately used my trusty "fan" brush to remove excess paint. I essentially ran the brush downwards with some pressure and removed paint from highlights points and simultaneously deposited paint in shadows areas. At this point, I was left with dark paint in the shadow areas and the highlight areas revealed the original Tamiya Field Grey base. I reapplied with a 00 brush the dark oil mix directly into all of the shadows which I missed in a stippling motion and lightly jabbing the areas and left this to dry for a few days.

A few days later I pulled my same oil mix out of the freezer (if well wrapped up - should be fine in your freezer for a week) and added some more Payne's Grey to darken it up a little. This time I added small amounts of this mix into the middle of all the shadows areas. Add a few dots and draw it out - instead of painting it - by stippling and lightly jabbing. It is really important not to apply a glob of paint and stroke. You want a subtle appearance and it takes small amounts at a time to reach this effect. I then added a micro dot of Mars Black oil to the mix and proceeded to add it in the shadows areas wet-on-wet, again drawing out the dots to thinly cover the shadow area. That was it for the shadows - I left it to dry for a week.

The highlights took the same mix - Payne's Grey, WN Olive Green oil and a tad of Raw Umber to a ratio of 3:3: - but then I added a small amount of Titanium White. Now the ratio was 3:3:1:1 and added small strokes of the mix to all the high points. I then added more white to a ratio of 3:3:1:2 and added it wet on wet onto the highlight areas again. I took a dry fan brush and flickered the brush downwards to remove any excess oil paint from the highlight points. Make certain your fan brush is dry and that in the motion of stroking downwards you only catch the protruding areas of the figure's jacket. Next I added a small dab of white and added it in selective hi-highlight areas, mostly around the shoulder area. Again, drawing the paint out to thin it as much as possible.

Once completely dry, a squirt of Polly S gloss cote was sprayed over the entire jacket area. Once this had thoroughly dried, I applied small washes of Payne's Grey mixed with Testor's paint thinner to all of the trim areas (see close up photo - you can see the small seam around the

trims) Wipe off excess as you go along. I also applied the wash along belt seams, and directly to the buttons. Once this dried , I sprayed the whole jacket area with dull cote - twice to ensure the sheen and gloss was muted down completely.

The above is my approach when painting German uniform field grey - regardless of scale. This is my first 1/16th scale figure and there was absolutely no difference in my methodology to painting 1/35th scale field grey - iy just took much longer to paint. The one advantage at 1/16th scale is that natural shadows are casted which helps considerably in trying to get different tonal values.

The cross belt was painted in Humbrol Brown Bess and highlighted with Gold Ochre only on the tops of the belt - I left the underside alone. The bread bag strap took same treatment but I added a very light wash of Burnt Umber to darken it and separate it from the cross belt.

The revolver hostler was painted Humbrol gloss White, then Burnt Sienna in a thin layer and when completely dry, I applied a small wash of Raw Umber.

The buckles and buttons were all painted in Silver Printers' ink - never used the stuff but thought I would try it since I have heard so much about it. When dry, I applied a wash of Mars Black and touched up the sides, corners and tops with a 2B pencil.

The boots were also painted Humbrol Brown Bess, washed in Mars Brown and pastels took care of the weathered look, particularly on the tips.

The gloves were painted Humbrol Azure Blue, washed in Payne's Grey and drybrushed with Azure Blue with a touch of Humbrol Flesh to lighten it up.

The "gagoole" around his head was painted Humbrol PZ Grey (67). It was then highlighted with Tank Grey (67) mixed with Humbrol White. I should add that I did do a little work using Tamiya Putty to fit the new head on the body. A wash of Payne's Grey and dry brushed in Azure Blue neat finished this part off.

The MG was painted Mars Black, and a 2B pencil was run along the edges to give it a metallic look. The feeder was painted Field Grey, washed in Payne's Grey, and dry brushed in Humbrol Olive Green .

The helmet was painted primed black, base coated Tamiya Panzer Grey, and while still wet, I added some talcum powder to give it texture. It is not noticeable in photo but it does give a nice old weathered appearance. A wash of Payne's Grey was applied over the helmet and a light drybrushing of Humbrol Tank Grey (67) finished this off.

A fun project that really was glitch- free other than my "accident" on painting the face. Overall, Tamiya's large scale figures are a real treat and worth every penny.